Thanksgiving and Wine November 5, 2010

Picture it: it’s the day before Thanksgiving, you’re having 14 friends and family over for dinner, and you’re serving about a dozen different foods. This is a situation I come across with my customers every year right before turkey day, and it often causes panic. What do I serve? How much do I buy? What single wine will go with all of those different dishes??? Luckily, there are some great wines out there that will more than fit the bill, and here are a few simple tips to avoid stress in this time of giving thanks.

 

Quantity

Here is the general rule of thumb we always follow when calculating how much wine you will need for Thanksgiving (or for any other event, for that matter)= 1 glass of wine per person, per hour. Now, when people are sitting down and eating, this can go up slightly, and you also have to take into consideration how many people will be partaking. However, even if you have someone who has two glasses per hour, and one guest who isn’t drinking, the estimate averages these out. You get 5 glasses of wine per bottle on average, so 10 guest, a two hour feast/event, equals 20 glasses of wine. 20 divided by 5 is 4, so ta-da! Four bottles of wine.

Quality

Thanksgiving is a particularly special time of year for many families, so while you may be a value shopper on wine for a good chunk of the year, for this event getting something of good quality is important. This doesn’t mean you have to spend a lot of money- far from it- but you do have to be a little bit choosier in your wine selections. Good thing there are so many wines that go with Thanksgiving dinner, which leads me to….

Varietals

Sauvignon Blanc This has been one of the benchmark standard wines for this event, and with good reason- it goes very well with turkey. Great, no problem, just go out and buy a case of New Zealand Sauv Blanc. Case closed. Well…not exactly. This zesty crisp white can come in a wide variety of styles, and some of it’s New World incarnations (such as those from New Zealand) can be too aggressive to pair with the myriad of foods other than turkey that are served. Stick to California for your turkey day Sauvignons- they tend to be lusher and fuller bodied and are great with everything from turkey to stuffing to green beans.

Rose As I’ve posted before,  dry rose can be a terrific parter to a wide variety of foods, and Thanksgiving is no exception. This especially holds true if, like many families, you include ham with your dinner. A good juicy yet dry rose will partner perfectly with both a salty Virginia ham as well a a sweeter honey baked one.

Gewürztraminer and Riesling Because of the many different spices used during a traditional feast (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves) as well as side dishes such as candied apples, sweet potatoes, and ambrosia salad, these two varietals can be some of the best partners around. Don’t be afraid if they have a little sweetness to them- that factor alone will make it a perfect match to some of the sweeter foods listed above. Also, the racy acidity of Riesling and Gewürztraminer from Germany and the Alsace makes them a great pairing for turkey and other game birds.

Pinot Noir What Sauvignon Blanc is for white wine when it comes to a traditional Thanksgiving dinner, Pinot Noir is for red. It’s lighter body and natural acidity make it a fantastic partner for turkey, as well as savory dishes such as oyster dressing or a salty ham. But just like Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Noir can come in a wide variety of styles depending on where it is from. If you want something lean and savory, head to Burgundy. If you want a wine that has juicier fruit and lower acids, think California. Want the perfect marriage of the two? Oregon!

Zinfandel Last but not least, if you want a red wine with a little more umph for your meal, head to California and the big bold and juicy flavors of Zinfandel. This has become a new favorite for many in recent years, thanks to the fact that its low tannin can still give you a wine with rich fruit forward flavor that still goes great with turkey and ham. Just watch the alcohol content on the bottles you choose- many CA Zins can get up to 16%, and if you have people who only drink wine on special occasions- let’s just say it could make for a VERY memorable Thanksgiving dinner!

Pinot for the People: Origins September 23, 2010

NIB: After my bout of writer’s block I’m resuming what I hope to be weekly posts here, and after many suggestions I’m taking a fun yet slightly more educational and in-depth look into the various wine making regions of the world. This is going to be part one of an on-going series exploring my favorite red grape.

Pinot Noir, to steal a quote from Jacques Cousteau, is a strange mistress. It is one of the traditional grape varietals that is the most difficult to produce good wine from- harvest too early and your wine is watery and, well, pink. Not red. Pink. Harvest too late, and you end up with bloated overripe grapes with no acidity and very little character. And unlike other varietals, there isn’t too much you can do to Pinot in order to fix these problems without destroying its delicate flavor and balance. Aging it in oak for too long produces what I like to call Chateau Two by Four- all oak, no wine flavor. Add another grape or two to it in order to “bump” up the flavor and you end up not with Pinot Noir but with a wine that tastes like the additional grapes added.  Syrah or Shiraz has been heavily utilized for this effect.  After the notorious boom in the grape’s popularity due in part the the movie Sideways bad Pinot started flooding the market like a pink tide. What was a Pinot Noir lover to do? The answer: go back to the source. Well, sort of.

The Burgundy region in France has long been heralded as the birthplace of Pinot Noir. Other than Gamay (found in Beaujolais to the south) it is the only other red grape found in the region. Fortunes and reputations have been made and lost here over the centuries thanks to this fickle little grape. It is here that the idea of terroir (loosely translated, the climate, soil, and overall environment of an area) truly reaches its apex; unlike other viticultural areas of the world, here a wine’s merit is often determined by where it is grown, not who produced it.

Much of this has to do with Pinot Noir’s ability to express the flavors of its terroir very readily- slate in your soil? You get a slightly slately flavor to the wine. Chalky soil is also always another terroir style that loves showing up in the wine itself. With over 400 different soil types in Burgundy, their passion for location, location location can be understood.

Where did all of this sub-par Pinot Noir come from you ask? It would be easy to blame California, the state that bastardized the name Burgundy in the first place (yes, E & J Gallo, I’m talking to you). Many of the Syrah-laden Pinot Noirs have indeed come from the Sunshine State. However, nipping right on their heels helping to push the tidal wave along was France. Many large wine producing conglomerates based in the US and elsewhere quickly realized that there was not nearly enough inexpensive Pinot to be found in California so they took to sourcing it from wherever they could get it.  Vin de Pays d’Oc and Corsica quickly became important players in feeding the wave.

So back to our question: where does one find good Pinot Noir these days? Burgundy is still a given- there has been some impact in the increased popularity of Pinot Noir here, but many people still don’t equate Burgundy itself with the grape. See again the curse of E & J Gallo and their jugs of Hearty Red Burgundy. It’s a tasty and quaffable beverage and makes great Sangria, but I’d challenge you to find a drop of Pinot Noir anywhere in that jug. Another fantastic option? head back to the US. Not to California (which still makes some lovely Pinot Noir) but to its neighbor to the north Oregon. Part 2 of this series will delve more deeply into the history of wine growing in this state and some fantastic examples of their wines. But for now, on to Burgundy!

2007 Albert Bichot Bourgogne  $15.99

To call this wine a Burgundy with training wheels would be misleading and an insult to this fantastic producer. Bourgogne (the French name for Burgundy) refers to wine that has wither been sourced from several different communes or from an area that is not designated. This means that there are often some fantastic deals to be found under this classification and this wine is no exception.  Look for lovely rich flavors  of freshly baked cherry pie with a lush earthy finish.

2007 Domaine du Prieure Hautes Côtes de Beaune   $17.99

Hautes Côtes de Beaune is a small appellation perched above Côtes de  Beaune proper. Most of the grapes grown here are Chardonnay, and since it doesn’t carry the prestige of its more famous neighbor their are often some incredible values to be found here. This is especially true of this fantastic and somewhat rare red. It is somewhat fleshier and dense than many burgundies but it still has a beautiful core of tart cherries and wild mushrooms.

2007 Raquillet Mercurey 1er Cru Les Puillets   $32.99

The village of Mercurey is within the sub-region Cotes de Challonais, and this particular wine is from the premier cru vineyard of Les Puillets. As mentioned before, Burgundy is all about location. This wine packs quite a bit more acidity than the Bourgogne or the Beaune, but the kick of beautiful raspberry fruit helps balance that out and makes for a very satisfying wine to have with your favorite roast bird.

Wonderful Wines of Oz July 8, 2010

Fifteen years ago, Australian wines burst onto the international market with the speed of a supernova. It’s frankly hard today to think of a world without Yellow Tail. But, to steal a quote: “With great power comes great responsibility.” Too much of a good thing sometimes becomes not such a good thing, and by 2006 the Aussies were faced with an unparalleled  glut of grapes and juice.

But think of this as survival of the fittest, vineyard-style. A lot of the cheap yet forgettable brands of the 90′s have fallen by the wayside and have made room in the American market for some fantastic yet also reasonably price wines. There’s a lot more that just big jammy Shiraz out there waiting to be sampled, so without further ado….

Rockbare Chardonnay McLaren Vale $16.99

Not that far on the heels of the Australian wine revolution came the trend towards clean, unoaked (also called unwooded) Chardonnay. Despite being known for bigger, juicier wines, the Australian public at large tends to favor cleaner styled wines, and so we have the Rockbare. When not weighed down with oak, Chardonnay has a beautiful array of crisp apple and flavors and this wine is no exception. Great on its own, it also is a natural when paired with grilled or rotisserie chicken as well as salads and seafood.

Mitolo Jester Shiraz McLaren Vale $20.99

This is a big, bold and bodacious Aussie Shiraz. But this fantastic wine gets its flavors not just from the warmer growing climate (as found in the well-known Barossa valley) but from the fact that 20% of the grapes are dried at the time of harvest and then the concentrated juice is  pressed and added to the wine. It’s the same method used in Italy to make ripasso style Valpolicella. When applied to a Shiraz from the McLaren vale, the result is awesome…loads of rich ripe blackberry and blueberry flavors balanced by moderate tannins and a mouthwatering long finish.

42 Degrees South Pinot Noir Tasmania $18.99

The latitudinal area between the 38th and 42nd parallels in the Northern Hemisphere is known as the Pinot belt. Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape to grow and the moderate to cooler climates found within this range, especially at around the 40 degree mark, makes this the place to plantt. It encompasses both the Willamette Valley in Oregon and Burgundy in France. So it should come as no surprise that the same would hold true for the Southern Hemisphere as well. Tasmania, New Zealand and Argentina have all recently started producing some excellent Pinots. As an island as well as the southernmost region in Australia, Tasmania has just recently begun exporting their fantastic Pinots, Chardonnays and sparklers. The 42 Degrees has lovely delicate dark fruit flavors balanced by a mineral quality seldom found in many New World regions.

Marquee Riesling Victoria $10.99

Don’t get me wrong, I love German Riesling. But this wine from Victoria is far from what most people’s conception of Riesling is. It has very little to no residual sugar and packs a wonderful whallop of tart green apple and fresh citrus. It’s been one of my favorite summer sippers for years now and pairs wonderfully with most Asian cuisines, especially sushi!

Coriole Sangiovese Shiraz   McLaren Vale $15.99

And now for something completely different…a blend featuring a grape not often found in Australia, but that is quickly gaining in popularity and in area under vine. Sangiovese is a hardy grape best known for being the principal ingredient of Chianti, and is usually known for acidity rather than tannin. Shiraz is usually the opposite, which I think helps this wine work so well. It’s got the juicy exuberance of the Shiraz balance by the tart earthy acidity of the Sangiovese. It’s the perfect expression of old world grape meets new world expression.

Fantastic Summer Reds June 5, 2010

I admit, when it comes to June through August my tastes in wine tend to go towards white and rose. But just because the weather has warmed up doesn’t mean that there aren’t a bevy of fantastic reds to enjoy this summer. And let’s face it, when it comes to enjoying a big juicy steak fresh off the grill sometimes even the heartiest of roses can fall flat.

Chateau de la Chaize Brouilly Beaujolais, France Reg. 16.99 Sale 9.99    100% Gamay

Beaujolais is one of the most fantastically versatile of all reds because of its light vibrant personality. While not suitable for big heavy cuts of meat, it’s wonderful with chicken, hearty fish, burgers, and especially barbecue.  And best of all serving it with a moderate chill really makes the zesty blackberry and cherry flavors pop while making it a great thirst quencher to boot.

l’Uvaggio Barbera Lodi, California $12.99

In the past five years Lodi has become the proud producer of some fantastic value priced wines. It’s always been part of the larger California wine growing juggernaut, but has only recent come into its own as a distinct appellation. It’s best known superstar has been Zinfandel, but many producers have been branching out in their planting and bottling. This fantastic juicy red is bursting with bright fruit flavors but has a nice undercurrent of acidity that helps to keep it balanced. It’s big and bold without being overpowering, which makes it a natch for grilled foods.

Springfield Firefinch Ripe Red Robertson, South Africa $14.99   Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc

Springfield has long been one of my favorite SA producers- their Wild Yeast Chardonnay and Life from Stone Sauvignon Blanc are stupendous. About four years ago they started producing a more value conscious line of wines under the Firefinch label. This fantastic red is all about fruit- ripe plums, ripe raspberries, ripe currents. It’s still a dry red but it’s juicy fruit helps it stand up to spicier barbecue sauces and is great with Cajun seasoning or steak au poivre.

Borsao Monte Oton Campo de Borja, Spain $7.99   100% Grenache

Bodegas Borsao has been responsible for several of our great values from Spain at The Wine Seller- Vina Borgia, Tres Picos and their Rosado, just to name a few. So it’s no surprise that this new arrival is a whole lot of wine for $8 and earned itself 88 points from the Wine Advocate. Grenache is another grape, like Gamay, that does very well with some chill on it, but with a little more juiciness and heft it make it extraordinarily versatile.

Everything’s Coming up Roses…. May 12, 2010

…and no, I don’t mean the lovely ones blooming in my garden right now.  I mean the succulent, dry, lively, luscious wine rosés that are popping into wine stores and restaurants all across the area right about now. Dry rosés are something that the denizens of Europe have been enjoying for centuries- they are red wines that, instead of being red (thanks to limited skin contact) come out pink instead. You get some of the rich dark fruit flavors commonly associated with red wines, encapsulated within a lighter body wine that can be chilled.

Pink wine has gotten somewhat of a bad reputation over the past few years. There are numerous producers in the United States that make pink wines (usually under the guise of White Zinfandel) that, while sweet, pleasant and drinkable, are not something that one usually waxes poetic about. What I’m talking about is rosé- in all of it’s robust, tangy, juicy glory.

You can find fantastic dry rosé from just about all of the major wine producing regions of the world these days, but the main homelands (so to speak) for this style are still Spain and France.  Spanish rosado tends to be a little more lush and fruity than its French counterparts, and is commonly made from either Grenache or Tempranillo.

Many fine French rosés are also made from Grenache, but depending on the region from which it hales you will also find Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Cinsault commonly used. Confused yet? Don’t be. While the grape or grapes that a rosé is made from can effect the flavor, the overall impression is usually the same- a fantastic and versatile wine for summer enjoyment. Below are several new arrivals that we here at The Wine Seller have been enjoying lately. Salut!

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Za Za Garnacha Rosé Campo de Borja, Spain $8.99

Luscious, creamy, rich aromas and flavors of strawberries and ripe cherries. While you would expect these flavors to produce a sweet wine, the overall impression is of fresh ripe fruit, instead of anything artificially sweetened. This is the essence of good Spanish rosé- juicy and full-bodied yet light enough to pair with chicken or seafood.  Especially lovely with pork.

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Domaine Bellevue Touraine Rosé Loire, France $9.99

100% Cabernet Franc. Crisp and refreshing flavors of black currants and cranberries are balanced by soft tannins and a juicy fruit-filled personality. Citrus notes predominate on the finish which makes this an excellent wine for simple summer refreshment or to pair with your favorite seafood dishes.

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Tegernseerhof Mittelbach Zweigelt Rose Austria $11.99

Don’t worry about pronouncing the name (or the grape for that matter)- just ask us for the Austrian rosé. This is among the leaner of the rosés that we carry, but that doesn’t mean it lacks in personality or character. Bright, tangy flavors of fresh picked berries are mixed with the zesty essence of lemon and lime. The perfect wine to serve if you don’t know whether you want a white or a red…it admirably fills the roles of both!

Spring Sippers April 21, 2010

Ah, spring! Despite the pollen and the frequent rain, I love this time of year. There are so many refreshing and mouth-watering whites, roses and even reds that I look forward to enjoying each spring that sometime I lose track.  Thanks to my diligent and tireless wine reps I am bombarded by a wonderful and endless parade of lightweight tropical Chardonnays, zesty herbal  Sauvignon Blancs, and vibrant racy Rieslings that practically crackle on the palate with an almost lightening like intensity. So to celebrate the warm weather I though I’d share some of my tasting notes on these fabulous warm weather sippers.

(As a side note, three of the four wines mentioned below are from the same region. I chose these wine totally independent of one another simply for the fact that I love them- I guess that says good things for the amazing value and quality of wine from South Africa!)

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2009 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose $11.99

Stellenbosch, South Africa

Woah. This is not your mamma’s rose. Intense flavors of dried black currants and tart black cherries are followed by a kick of white pepper and then oodles of dark ripe berry fruit. The finish is impressively long and seductive. A rose that you have to let breathe in order to fully appreciate all of the awesome layers of flavor.

Indaba Chardonnay   $8.99

Western Cape, South Africa

When I mentioned tropical Chardonnays earlier this is exactly what I was talking about. A riotous jumble of pineapple, pear, mango and banana is tempered by just a hint of creamy oak and a crisp citrus driven finish. This is a fantastic wine just to sip on the back porch, but it’s a natch for pairing with salads and seafood.

Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc   $8.99

Stellenbosch, South Africa

Don’t get me wrong…there are quite a few South African reds that I like…but there is just something about their inexpensive whites- especially those in the under $10 category- that really can’t be beat as far as value for the money.  When people ask me to describe this wine it’s pretty simple- it’s key lime pie in a glass.  Sweet zesty lime? Check. Bright acidity? Check. Just a touch of sweetness and creaminess on the finish? Check!

Rabbit Ridge Allure de Robles  $8.99

Paso Robles, California

I will always have a weakness for the wines of Central California- it’s where four generations of my family were born and raised. But the fact of the matter is that it’s also a great place to find some killer deals, thanks to land prices there being cheaper than in Napa and Sonoma. I love this little red blend for its juicy plump berry flavors and its soft tannins. It’s a fantastic pizza/barbecue/burger red that can be served slightly chilled- the cooler temperature really makes the berry flavors pop!

Beyond Burgundy and Bordeaux March 4, 2010

When I first started getting into wine about 10 years ago, I was adventurous: Italy, Spain, Germany, Oregon, Romania…you name it, I tried it. But the was one region that scared the living daylights out of  me and that was France. I’d be lying to you if I didn’t admit that there are certain levels of detail in French classification that intimidate me still. My recommendation for people to this day with France is to start sloooowly if you want to learn your Burgundies and Bordeaux. These lofty regions are well deserved in their prestige (if not always in their prices) but fortunately for us wine lovers there is a whole lot more of France to explore.

For the sheer joy of finding fantastic values and delicious wine, there are few better places that the south of France. I have been absolutely loving the wines of Provence and the Languedoc as of late. They are delicious, varied, and usually very reasonably priced. You will also often find the designation Vin de Pays on many wallet-friendly wines- the only problem is that VdP can stand for any de-classified region throughout France (Loire, Burgundy, Alsace…you name it). If you’re looking to stick to the South, look for something like Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc) or Vin de Pays de Rousillon.

Many producers from the Rhone and Burgundy also have holdings or produce wine in Provence and Languedoc, with comparable quality levels at literally half the price. For this reason, you can often find ridiculously good values in Pinot Noir and Syrah here literally right across the border. In wine, like real estate, so much has to do with location, location, location.

Also be on the look out for some very good values in Cabernet, Chardonnay and Merlot. However, buyer beware- there has been an influx in the past 10 years of companies from other countries buying up bulk juice from the South of France and basically making Yellow Tail-like creations out of it. Not to knock the Tail, but that’s not what I want from my French wine.

I feel like I may have been more confusing than helpful on this topic- but my advice is, as always, to not be afraid to explore beyond the smaller confines of classified French wine and to let you palate do the walking. You’ll be surprised by how many wonderful things you can find.

Arneis, the Other white grape January 29, 2010

Falanghina. Greco di Tufo. Fiano. Grillo. Garganega. Arneis.

Not ringing too many bells? Not surprised (and no, Brian F., if you’re reading this stop jumping up and down and waving your hand in the air. You don’t count). My spell checker is having a field day with that first line as a matter of fact.

All of the grapes listed above fall under the category of Italian Whites. I’ve had absolutely stunning wines made from all of them. But alas, there is one Italian white that reigns supreme in the heart and minds of Americans and that is Pinot Grigio. Good luck finding most of the above on most Italian restaurant’s wine menus.

I’m not maligning the grape as a whole.  When produced in other countries and regions (ie Alsace and Oregon) Pinot Gris is a fascinating and layered, luxurious little grape. But it has become northern Italy’s proverbial cash cow, much in the way that the Californians latched on to Chardonnay 30 years ago and have been overproducing the living daylights out of it ever since.

Don’t get me wrong. There are plenty of good, and a few great, Pinot Grigios from Italy out there. But there is also a ocean full of bland, insipid, and just down right boring ones too. There is so much more to explore in the world of Italian whites, oodles of new and exciting flavors just waiting to be discovered.

When I think of Pinot Grigio I think of fresh citrus and maybe a bit of fruit.

When I think of Arneis, flavors of almonds drenched in fresh honey dance on my palate with a lively kick of sun dried apricot on the finish.

When I think of Falanghina I think vine ripened peaches and hints of mineral with a savory mouth-watering quality.

Yes, I’m being a bit biased. But which of these sounds better to you?

So your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to go in search of some of these fabulous whites. As we brace for a winter storm here in VA, it is fun to think of warmer days ahead when these wine will really be able to show their stuff.

Screwcap Silliness January 28, 2010

Well, since this is a new blog, I thought I’d clear the air on a few things…screw cap enclosures being something that are near and dear to my heart- are the first subject up for grabs.

I know that, not even all that long ago, it was only fine wines such as Gallo Hearty Burgundy and Boone’s Farm that came sealed with a screw cap. But, let me tell ya folks, those days are thankfully behind us.

I love, love, love, LOVE screw caps. They keep the wine fresher, there’s less possibility of contaminants tainting the wine, and they’re a cinch to get on and off.

We can really thank the Kiwis for spearheading the revolution- 10 years ago they got together as an industry and did something extraordinary. They agreed that within a set time period that every winery on both islands would cease and desist the use of cork and instead use screw caps.

Other winemakers across the world thought they were nuts. Bare in mind that while there are a lot of New Zealand wines under $20, most of their Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays as well as many Sauvignon Blancs are in the $30-$50 range. A $40 bottle of Pinot Noir in a screw cap? Preposterous!

There was a lot of resistance at first. I’ve been in the wine industry for almost as long as the New Zealand switchover has been in place. And, to this day, there are still a few souls out there who refuse to believe that good things can come out of screw cap enclosed packages. But the nay-sayers have become fewer and fewer as the years had passed, especially since Australia and Oregon quickly joined the New Zealand bandwagon. And California winemakers such as the irascible Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon have even championed the screw cap (he took it to the next level by having a two year long campaign mourning the death of cork).

So if you see a lovely Pinot Noir from Oregon or California or even (gasp!) France in a twisty top fear not…there is a much better likelihood that the wine you will enjoy later that evening will be fresh and bright and taste exactly as the winemaker intended it to taste when it left the winery.  Which is, after all, the entire point.

Alrighty, here I go… January 28, 2010

Ok, so I’ve resisted the allure of the blog for many a year now, but I feel it’s time to start, at least in a semi-work related forum. This blog will deal mostly with wine, but beer and alcohol will surely crop up from time to time as well. Now, to find a muse, and to figure out how to link this thing to Facebook…